Thursday, January 17, 2013

Lamvong: Lao traditional dance

Lamvong dance

Honoured guests are requested to join in the lamvong samakhy dance so as to make them enjoy and feel at home in Laos.

Foreign guests always feel at home when they dance the Lamvong, and most often the Lao staples of sticky rice and grilled chicken accompanied by spicy green papaya salad and fish sauce will also be on offer.

Lao hosts typically entertain foreigners by inviting them to join in the fon lam vong lao (traditional dance or national folk dance) while serving up some of the country’s most popular dishes.

On any occasion, whether large or small, including festivals, invited guests will join their Lao friends in dancing the lamvong lao and eating traditional dishes.

When visiting Laos, dancing the lamvong lao and eating some real Lao food is a must, otherwise you won’t really have been to Laos at all!

At first, novices might find the lamvong difficult but after being shown the way by a charming Lao partner, you will soon get used to the gracious hand and foot movements that make this dance so appealing. It is without doubt the slow and delicate gestures that give the lamvong its special charm.

Head of Research Management at the Performing Arts Division of the Department of Performing Arts, Ms Nouth Phouthavongsa, said the moves involved are in fact very easy to pick up. There are several types of dance in Laos, and each community has its own traditional songs and styles of dance.

Ms Nouth recalled a time when Laos didn’t have modern musical instruments. In those days, people in rural areas lit a fire as the focal point of a social gathering. The fire was a source of light and village folk fashioned instruments from bamboo. After eating, men and women would dance around the fire together to entertain themselves.

Their movements reflected the rhythm of the music, and their feet and hands were guided by the cadences produced by the simple instruments.

“The lamvong developed many centuries ago and we call it the lamvong because men and women danced in a circle to the music of folk songs (lam),” Ms Lamvong: Lao traditional dance Nouth explained.

She described the customs surrounding the lamvong, which have their roots in days long past.

A man invites a woman to dance by placing the palms of his hands together in a sign of respect (also the traditional form of greeting, known as a nop).

He may also place a garland of flowers around his intended partner’s neck.

Before they begin the dance, the man and woman both nop to each other as a sign of respect.

When the dance is over, the man escorts the woman back to the place where she was seated previously and tells her “khop chai” (thank you).

As time has passed, some of these customs have changed.

If a dance takes place during an important event or at a festival, it is acceptable for women to invite guests to dance. It is tradition for guests and hosts to take to the floor for the first dance.

The Lao refer to the dance as the fon lamvong samakkhy. The general meaning is that guests and hosts dance together to get to know one another better, which in Laos is almost certainly the case.

This dance envelops you in friendship and guests cannot fail to be impressed with the warmth and camaraderie that will inevitably follow.

In fact, the national folk dance in Laos is the “Lamvong”.

Lao ethnics living in Thailand also dance the lamvong and people in Cambodia also dance the Lamvong dance.

Most people believe the lamvong dance originated in ancient Laos a very long time ago.

The lamvong is basically a circle dance in which people move continuously round in a large circle, starting from right to left, gracefully moving their arms and legs and bending their fingers to the music, but never touching one another. You move your hands in opposite directions, one to the left and one to the right and also move your legs in time to the rhythm.

Lao people, young and old, also like to dance the lamvong during celebrations such as Lao New Year “Pi Mai Lao”.

The lamvong is typically performed to mor lam (traditional) or country music, although in Lao nightclubs however, Western forms of dance tend to predominate.

If you are having a Lao engagement or wedding ceremony though, the bride and groom will be required to dance the lamvong together and then they will dance with guests. If a lamvong is not performed then it’s definitely not a traditional Lao engagement or wedding but a westernised ceremony.

Men and women don’t have to wear the traditional Lao costume when they dance the lamvong together at a general party, but women who attend a formal occasion such as a wedding have to wear the traditional “sinh mai” dress.

Lao girls often wear the traditional Lao dress in daily life, but it is not common for Lao guys to wear a traditional Lao outfit unless they are getting married.

When dancing the lamvong, you can’t just play any music for it. It’s a slow traditional dance so traditional classic Lao music must accompany the dance. The sound of the Khaen a traditional Lao musical instrument, which is usually described as a mouth organ made from hollow cane, is also suitable for the lamvong dance.

The lamvong is really enjoyable to dance and handy to learn because if you plan to marry a traditional Lao woman in the future, or you want to get involved within the Lao community, then it’s something that you will need to know how to do.

The lamvong is a famous dance and greatly enjoyed during parties, weddings, festivals and other local celebrations in Laos.

Lamvong is a very easy dance that doesn’t require any special skills and it’s great fun so don’t be shy. If you spend more time on the sidelines than on the dance floor at Lao parties and celebrations then you’re definately missing out.

Guests are requested to participate in the lamvong dance so as to make them enjoy and feel at home when they are in Laos.

The hosts will request the guests to dance by inviting them onto the stage or floor and showing them how to dance.

So come on and join in, it’s time to get down and dance the lamvong while in Laos.

Source: Lao Press Centre

Explore Xekong – A rare chance


Xekong province, one of four provinces in the south of Laos, has beautiful scenery, impressive handicrafts and offers opportunities to observe the lifestyle of different ethnic groups.

In 1997 I visited Xekong province to attend the first Roundtable meeting with foreign ambassadors to Laos, and staff of UNDP and NGOs. I visited villages in all districts of the province and talked with many local people. People in Xekong are friendly, just like people in other parts of Laos.

However, travelling in Xekong province can be difficult, especially during the rainy season, and we flew by helicopter to some of the more remote villages. It is best to visit the province during the dry season.

I saw many interesting things in the four districts of the province. I started in Dakcheung district, which borders Vietnam and is about a 25 minute flight from the provincial capital.

I visited many villages and observed the local people’s lifestyle. Many people displayed their handicraft products and wore their traditional clothes and jewellery.

Villagers use local materials to weave very impressive items such as bamboo baskets, trays for eating, mats and fish traps. The results were very attractive and of good quality, and were on sale at a low price.

I bought a few baskets as souvenirs, as did my fellow visitors. Many people said they wished they had come in their own vehicle so they could take more handicrafts home with them. At that time many people in Laos and overseas were interested in decorating their homes with handmade items.

In some villages of the province people build their houses close together. The style of their houses is similar: long with pyramid shaped roofs. There are no bedrooms, living rooms or kitchens inside, just one big open space. Elderly people work close to a fire inside the house in order to stay warm. Women weave clothes and spin cotton after they finish harvesting their crops. Inside their houses they hang water buffalo horns on the main pillar. Some houses have more than 10 such horns including white and black water buffalo horns.

Xekong province is home to 10 ethnic groups. There are many interesting places to visit in Thataeng and Kaleum districts. I visited these districts to observe local people growing crops for sale and to see a model cultural village. I also made trips to Tad Faed and Tad Huakhon waterfalls. These beautiful cascades are not far from the provincial capital, about a 20 minute car-ride.

According to Xekong provincial Tourism Department Director Mr Khamphet Siphokham, Xekong province has untapped potential in developing eco-tourism, cultural attractions and archaeological sites for tourists. Many places such as waterfalls are not yet accessible because of the poor roads.

How to get to Xekong province

Buses travelling to Xekong province depart from Vientiane’s Southern Bus Station in Xangkhou village, Xaythany district. The journey takes about 12 hours. Buses also continue from Xekong to Saravan and Attapeu provinces.

Tags: Laos Tours

Tuesday, January 15, 2013

Laos Travel Tips

Laos moutain
From Indochina in unique shots
Tags : Laos Travel
TRAVEL TIPS

Climate and Clothing
Light-weight washable cotton or cotton-blent clothes are suitable. A sweater or coat is needed for the winter and in upland areas.

Customs and Immigration
A valid transit, tourist visit, business, diplomatic, or service visa is required. All foreigners may enter and depart Laos via Wattay Airport, or Thai-Lao Friendship Bridge, the Mekong border crossing with Nongkai, Thailand.

A visa can now be obtained upon arrival at the airport and other official entry points. However, certain regulations are applied.

Health
Medical and dental facilities are mostly operated by the government. Private clinics and pharmacies are available in the major cities. The International Clinic is operated under the supervision of the Ministry of Health, to accommodate foreigners and diplomats. Medicines from France, USA, Russia, Thailand and China are widely available in most pharmacies.

Telecommunications:
International telephone, fax, telegraph and telex services are available at post offices, hotels and business centers. Mobile phones are widely used.

Several radio stations broadcast in Lao. The Lao National Radio carries news in English, French and Thai. There are daily TV broadcasts, with two local channels, Thai television and satellite reception.

Transportation
Public transportation is by bus, taxi and samlo (rickshaw). There are both metered and unmetered taxi. No railroad is available in Laos. Lao Aviation, Thai Airways International, Cambodia and Vietnam Airlines connect Wattay Airport of Vientiane to Bangkok, Yangon, Hanoi, Hochiminh City, Phnompenh and Kunming of China. Domestic flights shuttle daily between Lao cities. Mittaphab Bridge across the Mekong to Thailand opened in early 1994.

Currency
Local currency is called Kip. One USD is worth approximately 2,450 kip (1998). Money can be exchanged at banks, authorized shops, or hotels. Exchange rates fluctuate everyday, though fluctuation is tiny.

Banks
Banque pour le Commerce Exterier Lao, Sethathirath Bank, Nakornluang Bank, Joint Development Bank, and Thai branch banks.

Traveler’s Checks and credit cards can be used at major banks, some hotels, restaurants and shops.

Electricity:
220 volts at 50 HZ

Major Events and Traditional Festivals
1 January New Year
13-15 April Lao New Year (Pimai)
1 May International Labor Day
End of May Rocket Festival
Mid-October End of Buddhist Lent & Boat Races
Beginning of November That Luang Festival
2 December Lao’s National Day.

Sunday, January 13, 2013

7 days in Laos


  • Tags: Laos Tours
  • Kylie McLaughlin
  • Lonely Planet Author
Three Lao Theung women in traditional clothing.
  • Standing Buddha statues draped in saffron, in the royal funerary carriage house, Wat Xieng Thong- Luang Prabang, Laos
  • Row of Beer Lao along Thanam Fa Ngum.
  • The sun setting over Luang Prabang - Northern Laos
  • The floating restaurant " La Monarque " moored on the banks of the Mekong River, Laos' major highway
  • Lao coffee on open fire steamer in coffee shop.
View gallery
Floating down serene rivers and coasting along country roads gawping at stunning countryside? Check. Poking your way around ancient temples filled with enigmatic, saffron-cloaked monks? Check. Sipping on a famous Beerlao brew as the setting sun melts the magnificent Mekong into a simmering river of gold, and monks chant their oms in the distance? Yes. Laos’ beautiful personalities, incredible sights and unique, laid-back nature can all be enjoyed in just a week. Here’s how:
Day one – Vientiane
In the nation’s friendly capital, visit Laos’ most important national monument, the Golden Stupa (Pha That Luang), and take in the surrounding temples. As the temperature rises, head closer into town to scope out the inner-city’s beautiful temples such as Wat Si Saket, café-hopping in between. At sunset, join in with the rest of Vientiane’s city folk and take a stroll along the Mekong. If you have energy to spare, test out Vientiane’s bar scene: head to Sabai Dee or Lunar 36Eat: Baguettes and fruit shakes from street vendors; Aria; Le Banneton.
Day two – Vientiane
If you’re feeling intrepid, hire a motorcycle from the town centre and explore the surrounding countryside en route to artist Luang Pu’s Buddha Park (Xieng Khuan). Go past landmarks such as the Beerlao brewery and the Laos-Thai Friendship bridge, wats (temples) dotted along the roadsides and busy produce markets, riding alongside young monks riding bikes under the shade of umbrellas. Cap off the day with a visit to Vientiane’s night market.
Day three Vang Vieng
Vang Vieng is most easily reached by bus, which you can easily book from a travel agent in Vientiane. Allow for half a day’s travel, and once you’ve settled yourself into a guesthouse, grab a place to sit by the Nam Song river and watch the sun fall atmospherically over the limestone karst cliffs that dominate the skyline. Eat at: Central Backpackers (don’t miss Laos’ best cocktails here); Organic Mulberry Farm Café; Nazim; Mitthaphao Fusion.
Day four Vang Vieng
Experience Laos’ most famous adventure: tubing. Head out late morning to avoid the young crowds and have the river to yourself. Spend the day being swept along the Nam Song by tiny currents of water while taking in the jaw-dropping scenery. Stop by at a few bars – but not too many – take note of this Lonely Planet advice: ‘as idyllic as it sounds, keep a clear head, for there’s the occasional horror story; in times of high water, rapids along the Nam Song can be quite daunting.’ Once you’ve passed the very last bar, grab a tuk-tuk back to the town or continue via tube.
Alternative to Vang Vieng – Phonsavan and the Plain of Jars
If the tubing/partying scene is not your style, skip Vang Vieng and head to the mysterious centre of Phonsavan and wonder at the ancient burial ground, the Plain of Jars. On arriving in Phonsavan, head to the UXO (Unexploded Ordnance) centre and learn about Laos’ plight with unexploded bombs that were dropped during the Vietnam War. Organise a tour for the next day that takes in all three main Plain of Jars sights (the final two have more picturesque settings, the first is the largest). Visit the Bomb Village where houses have been constructed out of bomb debris, and meet the woman who runs a Whisky distillery out of an old shed. During the evenings, watch a free film screening about Laos’ UXOs. Note that the area still has unexploded bombs, so take care when walking to stay within designated areas – only the three main Plain of Jars sites are considered reasonably free of UXOs. Eat at: Nisha RestaurantCraters Bar & Restaurant.
Day five – Luang Prabang
Grab an early bus to the Unesco heritage-listed city of Luang Prabang. This may be a day of travel, but unparalleled scenery will keep you occupied as you cut through mountainous peaks and crevices that reveal picturesque little hilltop villages where children play along the roadside and farm animals grunt and squawk as you go by. On your arrival in Luang Prabang, head straight to the riverside and marvel as the sun sets over the gushing Mekong. In the evening, enjoy a lazy stroll through the night-market’s exquisite handicrafts where Laos specialties, such as handmade quilt covers and silk can be picked up for a steal. Eat: Head to the night-market for scrumptious BBQ fish and other colourful local dishes.
Day six
Head to Laos’ most spectacular waterfall Tat Kuang Si, where tempting pools of incandescent blue are set amongst tall, shady trees at the base of this massive cascade of water. On your way in, don’t miss the bear sanctuary that has rescued sparring Asiatic black bears from the illegal pet trade. Amble back through spectacular countryside that breaks into views over Luang Prabang and the Mekong. Eat at: Dyen Sabai; Lao Lao Garden; Coconut Garden; Le Banneton.
Day seven
Get up at dawn for the monk’s procession (Tak Bat), then check out the creepy crawlies on parade at the local produce market. Take your time to explore the many exquisite and famed temples; when you’re templed-out, grab a ferry and cross the Mekong to visit the village of Ban Xieng Maen. Take your time doing this, but remember to catch the sun setting over the city from the hilltop Phu Si, back in Luang Prabang. Take another peek at the night market for souvenirs, then finish your trip with a dance at popular nightspot, Utopia.
Kylie McLaughlin manages and writes for Lonely Planet Images’ blog.


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